Cookie Quest - Chess Pie Cookies

I've been trying to organize all my recipes lately - seemingly an insurmountable task - and in going through all of them, I found this one from my mom that I hadn't made in a long time. And that's the beauty of recipe organizing - we've been trying a lot of new recipes lately, some good, some not so good. This one isn't a new one, per se, since I can remember my mom making it when I was a kid, but it's definitely new to Matt.

Looks like the cookie monster's been here.

Part of the inspiration for making these cookies came from paging through a copy of The White House Cookbook by Janet Halliday Ervin that was given to me by my mother-in-law. This cookbook was published in 1964 and includes the entire text of the original White House Cookbook written in 1887 by Mrs. Fanny Gillette and Mr. Hugo Ziemann (then White House steward). The 1964 version contains not only the un-updated original text, it also contains a section on each of the First Ladies and a few recipes that they liked to serve during their time in office, ending with Lady Bird Johnson. This part was particularly interesting to me, both in terms of learning about the former First Ladies and because it put a lot of recipes into context. It was interesting to watch how the American palate evolved (at least through the '60s) and to see the strong British and French influences that remain. There are a lot of recipes that I want to try, including one for Maids of Honor, a treat that Matt and I tried for the first time during our visit to London over the summer. One of the last recipes in the book is for Chess Pie from the LBJ White House.

1 cup chopped pecans, ready to go

There is a note below the recipe stating that it is an old recipe, and inviting the reader to compare it to an even older recipe for Chess Cake dating to 1879. Chess pie is a Southern specialty - apparently originally from England - that seems to me to be pretty similar to the sugar pie of French Canada (except I think that one has cream in it). Lady Bird Johnson's recipe is: Mix 2 cups sugar with 1 heaping Tbsp flour, and add to 1/2 pound butter. Blend until light and fluffy. Add 4 eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition. Add 1/2 tsp vanilla and pour into unbaked pie shell. Bake in 300 degree oven until knife inserted comes out clean - about one hour. (The White House Cookbook p. 488). The older recipe is similar, but uses six egg yolks and no flour and calls for adding "some pretty jelly into the center" of the pie (p. 489). When I first read the older one, I wasn't sure why it's called Chess Cake. Bill Neal, Chapel Hill chef extraordinaire, can answer that question. His version of Chess Pie is slightly different than Lady Bird's - his is flavored with lemon rather than vanilla. What's interesting, though, is his note before the recipe: "In Tennessee, as many as six or seven of these pies, baked and cooled, are stacked on each other and sliced as a cake" (Southern Cooking p.191). The White House version said nothing about stacking them, but the recipe did imply that more than one was being made at a time, and maybe everyone just knew that you were supposed to stack them into a cake. I can't even imagine eating a slice of that cake - it must be super rich.

Ready to go in the oven!

Anyway, bringing this all back together, when I saw Lady Bird's Chess Pie recipe, I remembered that I had recently seen the Chess Pie cookies recipe from my mom, and decided to make those. Matt had never heard of chess pie in any form, but was sold on the cookies. The cookie recipe comes from the mother of a friend of mine from elementary school, and is a less egg-y version of the filling of a chess pie with some pecans thrown in. They're actually pretty similar to blondies - in fact, they're basically identical to my blondie recipe with only slightly less flour. The main difference, of course, is that chess pie cookies have chopped pecans in them while the blondies have chocolate chips. "That's a completely different thing," Matt says. Like the blondies, they are easy to make and very delicious. And also like the blondies, I feel a little silly that I haven't made these very often.

Chess Pie Cookies
From Mrs. Hackney

1/2 cup butter
2 cups brown sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 1/2 cups flour
2 tsp. baking powder
pinch of salt
1 cup chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13x9 pan and set aside. Melt butter over low heat, add brown sugar. Remove from heat, and stir in eggs, one at a time. Add in vanilla. Mix flour with baking powder and salt. Stir into brown sugar mixture and combine well. Add nuts. Spread into prepared pan and bake 20-25 minutes or til browned. Let cool before cutting into bars.